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Rhône Flair, Aussie Finesse, by John Livingstone-Learmonth, Decanter, May 2010
McLaren Vale has six sub-regions whose soils and underlying rock formation differ markedly. Blewitt Springs, at the north-eastern end, has sand on top of ironstone, with old-vine roots deep enough to obviate the need to irrigate. Seaview, nearby to the west, has red clay 45cm down, then dark sand and loam on top.
McLaren Flat’s soils are more alluvial and richer in limestone, while the hills of Willunga, near the fault line (and largely left uncultivated because access is harder than for the plain lands) are said by South Australian wine writer and geologist Philip White to have some of the region’s most promising sites. ‘The vineyard are is moving towards the Willunga Hills, which are more than 1,000 billion years old and there is a lot of slate,’ he says. ‘I’m convinced the best vineyards are from the fault-line escarpment there.’
The other two sub-regions are McLaren Vale itself: calcareous sandstone, and in the south-west: the Sellicks Foothills: flat land with water-retaining grey-green clay, but unlikely to be a prime site.
Rhône Flair, Aussie Finesse, by John Livingstone-Learmonth
The immigration official snapped shut my passport, looked me in the eye and said, ‘so you’re writing about Australian wines?’ Before I could muster a reply, she gave me the damning verdict: ‘They’re all mass produced.’ Wham! The issue in a nutshell.
Prising consumer mentalityaway from Australia = big brands in a region as individual and nuanced as McLaren Vale in South Australia is a hot topic. The sub-region angle – closer – definition of zones within this 80-estate enclave – is a good start. Across a 10 day visit to McLaren Vale to act as the internal judge at the local annual wine show, talk of terrior and sub-regionality was plentiful. For some, like Drew Noon Estate, it has always been central to his thinking.
‘My 1934 Grenache vineyard is sheltered, its exposure north to south and its tannins firmer than the 1943 Grenache vineyard, which is planted east to west on ironstone and white quartz. The Granahe is lighter, more spicy and the fruit more aromatic.’ Such precision will be required of many more growers in the future.
McLaren Vale, the costal region south of Adelaide, is pressing ahead in establishing six sub-regions within a compact 40km north to south and 20km west to east area. It’s eastern, inland line is set by the Willunga escarpment, part of the Mt Lofty ranges tat run into the Riesling-friendly Adelaide Hills. It is thus a coherent area that naturally lends itself to such plans. ‘Sub-regionality is our first step towards more precise charting, in the vein of appellations,’ says Joch Bosworth of Battle of Bosworth and Chalk Hill.
It takes time, though, for such intricacies to filter through to the market, so for now Shiraz remains king, and thinking remains varietal. There is definite stirring towards the Rhône, and away from Bordeaux: 60% of the vineyards are Shiraz, while Cabernet Sauvignon – though the next most widely planned variety – has just 8%. Certainly Grenache is receiving increasing attention: its purchase price has doubled in the past two years after steady rises – in 2002 it was A$500 a ton, now it is A$2,750 a ton.
Mourvedre is just starting to show up in people’s awareness. Kay Brothers used to grow Mourvedre in the 1880s, but it disappeared, probably because it stresses and sunburns more than Grenache. A clay subsoil, like that next to the d’Arenberg cellars, allows a slow release of moisture, and the Mourvedre there dates from 1920. Precise geological charting will allow such explicit soil and variety matching in the future. Varieties such as Counoise are set to be planted at Yangarra, as is Cinsault – of which some exists from the 1950s – a good move, given both vines’ low-alcohol profile. White varieties such as Roussanne and Viognier are also slowly moving to the fore.
Shiraz: reliable leader
Despite what Grenache has to offer, Shiraz remains king of the Rhône varieties in McLaren Vale and, some would say, the key to its future. A fascinating insight into the potential for sub-region framework is provided by the single-vineyard Shiraz at Tintara, a division of Hardys that was sold to Constellation in 2003. Tintara is left considerable elbow room, it appears and produces three different Shirazes of 4,000 to 6,000 bottles each – from Blewitt Springs (1950s planted vines; an elegant generous wine), Upper Tintara, 180m away, (1989, schist-style clarity) and McLaren Flat (1960s; dense, powerful). All express different nuances and, setting aside the various vineyard ages, indicate a possible road ahead – that of making wines with individuality, sold on a personal, not mass produced, level.
Other eye-catching Shirazes I tasted included the 2008 III Associates Descendant of Squid Ink (fine nose, very ripe fruit, drinking well already); the succulent, oaked 2007 Nashwauk Shiraz; the 2008 Lake Breeze Bullant Shiraz from Fleurieu at the southern end of McLaren Vale (pure, ripe fruit) and a 2007 Shiraz Mourvedre blend from Marius Symposium, where the Mouvedre contributes extra compact depth and length in a typical fashion.
There is a practical reason, too, that drives the leaning towards Shiraz; the vine’s reliability. Michael Scarpantoni of Scarpantoni Wines says: ‘if I could keep only one vine, it would be Shiraz. It is good to very good every year, never bad. Cabernet ranges from unreliable to fantastic.’ As short a time ago as the early 1980’s, the Scarpanonis would make a Port-style wine from their block 3 1930sand 1940s planted Shiraz. By the end of the decade, they had switched to table wine from that esteemed parcel. We’re talking relative youth here, via first generation exposure to the vines and wines themselves; serious lags behind the role model Rhône, where many vigneron families are at least fourth generation.
To achieve the goal of more terrior in the glass, growers will have to develop their mentality beyond just that of comparing variety A against variety B, which is what Australian consumers carry in their heads. Export may be the answer – addressing drinkers who understand single vineyard wines and are keen to lap up the story behind the label. At the same time, there is the local leaning towards ‘all things big’ to contend with. ‘Australians have to get used to wines you can see through,’ says Joe Grilli of Prime Estate, ‘and get away from this macho ‘blackest is best’ culture, which is especially prevalent in South Australia.’
Instinct was a prime feature of a Rhône grower’s mentality when I first visited the region in 1973. It is something not yet established in the make up of many McLaren Vale growers. To work less from the ‘book of adjustments’ and to work more truly in synchronisation between vineyard and cellar would be a mighty step forward. If that were to occur, there would be certainly be more underpinning of the laudable sub-region enterprise, resulting in more varied, nuanced wines; wines with finesse and mystery. After all, a little mystery never did anyone much harm.
Some Decanter recommended Shiraz to lay down now for later:
Leconfield, Richard Hamilton Shiraz,
McLaren Vale 2008 *****
Now - 2019
www.leaconfieldwines.com
TJV Wine Company, The Old Faithful Top of the Hill Shiraz,
McLaren Vale 2006 *****
Now - 2018
www.tinlins.com.au
Oliver’s Taranga, HJ Reserve Shiraz,
McLaren Vale 2006 ****
Now - 2021
Hgt, lmb
Pertaringa, Over the Top Shiraz,
McLaren Vale 2007 ****
Now – 2017
Drj, Evy
Wirra Wirra, RSW Shiraz,
McLaren Vale 2007 ****
Now – 2020
VnN, WSo
Gemtree, Uncut Shiraz,
McLaren Vale 2008 ****
Now – 2015
Evy, You
